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Hacienda La Minita
History
The plantation has been owned by the McAlpin
family since 1967. At that time, it was part of
a larger farm system. In 1978, a decision was
reached to divest the milling operation and
coffee producing property. Bill McAlpin decided
to retain, through purchase, the finest coffee
producing lands (about 40% of the original
land), he has also maintained the farm
management team that has now run the farm
continuously for 30 years. The land, buildings
and management team are collectively referred to
as Hacienda La Minita.
La Minita means “the small mine.”
Traditionally, local legend has it that
pre-Colombian Indians came to look for gold on
the land that is now the farm.
Geography
La Minita is located about 1½ hours drive south
of San Jose, in the coffee producing area called
“Los Santos.” The zone known as Los Santos
includes a series of small villages and towns
that begin in the north with San Juan Norte and
end in the south with Santa Maria de Dota. The
farm is located within the region from which
fruit coffee is received by the Tarrazu coffee
mills. The coffee from our farm is considered
a Tarrazu coffee, but we believe the geography
and microclimate of the farm produces a much
more balanced and flavorful coffee than other
Tarrazu coffees.
The plantation consists of a total of 1,200
acres of land of which 680 acres are currently
in production. Of the remaining 520 acres,
there are 200 acres of natural forest preserve
located on the south side of the farm that will
never be brought into coffee production.
The land lays on a east-west axis, bordered by
the Tarrazu river to the south and the Alumbre
river to the north. These two rivers converge
at the western base of the mountain spur upon
which the farm is situated. The soil is a pale
clay, tan to light red.
Although there is a section of the farm that
approaches 6,000ft in altitude, the central
block lies between 3,750ft and 5,000ft. The
main house is located at an altitude of
4,850ft. In spite of the considerable altitude
differences, the mean temperature variance is
minimized by the cooling effect of the large
river flow that borders the farm. Importantly,
the farm faces the west, which allows for
gradual warming in the morning and slow cooling
in the evening.
Coffee
Plantings
There are approximately 680 acres of coffee in
production. We have four varieties of trees
under cultivation; Caturra, Catuai red, Catuai
yellow, and Hibrido. After many years of
experimentation, statistical analysis and cup
quality testing, we have decided to stay
principally with the Caturra and to continue to
maintain a small amount of the old Hibrido.
We plant approximately 2,500 trees per acre on
the farm depending upon the geography of the
area being planted and the variety of tree
used. This results in a total of about
1,700,000 trees on the farm.
We employ a five-year rotational pruning system
which will be clearly evident on your visit.
Every fifth year, the coffee tree is cut down to
approximately 50 centimeters in height,
retaining the lower branches. This will
encourage the tree to begin new growth. One
year after this cutting, two primary shoots are
selected for the next four years of production.
All of this work is performed using hand tools.
Each year roughly 350,000 trees are pruned.
After three cycles of pruning, fifteen years,
the trees become exhausted and are replaced with
trees from our nursery. This nursery is located
on a small, protected area of the farm. The
nursery trees are nurtured on this farm for one
year prior to being transplanted to the main
farm. In a typical year, we transplant about
150,000 trees.
We use the fast growing, broad-leafed “poro” as
our shade tree. These trees are planted on a
grid of varying density depending on the light
requirements and need for temperature control in
each individual section of the farm.
Growing Cycle
We produce one crop of coffee each year. For
us, the cycle begins with the first rains of the
year. These rains normally occur sometime
between the end of March and the beginning of
May. The timing of the first rain is essential,
for it is the rain that signals the tree to
begin flowering.
Approximately ten days after the initial rains,
small honeysuckle-like flowers form on the
trees. Millions of flowers are produced in a
spectacular display. The entire farm looks like
it is covered in freshly fallen snow. It is a
fleeting event, for a few days after they
appear, the flowers whither and fall off the
trees. The flowering is of critical importance
to the coffee crop, for the node where each
flower formed will produce a single coffee
cherry, and within this cherry are the coffee
seeds which will become the coffee bean. If the
flowering is adversely affected by the weather,
pollination wil not occur, no cherry will form
and there will be no coffee.
From the onset of the initial rains, we enter
into the seven month rainy season. During the
rainy
season, there will typically be four to six
hours of rainfall every day. These rains
nurture the trees and encourage the growth and
development of the green coffee cherries. The
rains also have the potential to create huge
problems of road and soil erosion. You will
notice that all of the coffee is planted on
terraces interspersed with complex water
drainage channels. Thousands of man hours are
required during the rainy season to control
erosion and maintain the road system of the
farm.
The rains also encourage the growth of weeds
among the coffee trees. We do not use
herbicides to control the weeds at La Minita,
but instead hire contract labor who use machetes
to clear the weeds by hand. We do not believe
in introducing unnecessary chemical influences
to the farm, it is our home and the well being
of its plants, animals and people is important.
Each year, every acre of the farm is weeded
three times.
All sections of the farm are soil tested twice
every year, and we base our fertilization
formulas on the results of these tests. We are
careful to use the minimum amount of product
necessary to achieve production, and we apply it
to the base of each tree three times. This is
done for both economic and environmental
reasons. Additionally, a spray of minor
elements (zinc, boron, copper, etc) is applied
to the underside of the leaves. This spray
nourishes the plant and protects it from
diseases.
Insecticides are not used on the farm.
Fortunately, the geographic advantages of the
farms climate and altitude limits the number of
insect pests. Most importantly, through our
careful cultivation and weeding techniques we
produce coffee trees which are strong and
healthy. The few pests that we have do not
significantly affect the trees.
With the end of the rainy season comes the
ripening of the coffee cherries. The large
green cherries begin to turn either red or
yellow and fill with the sweet miel (honey) that
surrounds the seeds. Unlike the flowering, the
ripening of the fruit is slow and uneven.
Because of this, harvesting the fruit must be
performed carefully. Only the ripe fruit is
picked, leaving the still unripe fruit for
subsequent pickings. We pick each tree on the
farm up to five times to harvest the fruit.
The crop cycle of the farm ends with the “repela”,
or the final picking of the trees. This usually
occurs at the end of February, and during this
pass, all of the coffee cherries, both ripe and
unripe, are removed from the trees, preparing
the trees for the next year’s cycle.
Farm
Infrastructure
The terrain of the farm is very difficult, and
we move a great deal of weight in coffee fruit.
To aid in the transport of the coffee and to
provide access to all areas of the farm, there
are a total of about 30 kilometers of internal
road system.
As well as the office and storage buildings,
there are 27 housing units within the farm.
There is also a camp with showers, indoor
plumbing, and cooking facilities for pickers who
live too far away to travel every day. All of
the water used in these facilities is fed by
springs and is perfectly safe to drink.
We have had a long standing open invitation to
all of our clients to come and visit the farm.
This year we will host some 75 overnight guests
and over 300 single day visitors to the farm
during January and February.
Our business offices are located in San Jose in
Costa Rica, and Bar Harbor, Maine in the United
States.
The People
We have a
core of 80 full time employees. This includes;
managers, farm workers, clerical staff, drivers
and maintenance personnel. All of these full
time employees are provided housing for
themselves and their families on the farm.
This core of people is augmented by
approximately 150 contracted laborers to perform
weed control and over 600 pickers during the
harvest.
It is our policy to assist our workers by
actively supporting them in their lives outside
of working hours. We contribute matching funds
to the workers’ association savings plans. This
money is used for retirement savings or to fund
large purchases such as appliances or
furniture. Each year the association organizes
a bus trip to Golfito in Southern Costa Rica
where large tax free purchases can be made.
The association encourages and funds sports
programs. There is a soccer team for the adult
men, as well as a junior team. A choir has been
organized for the women with a singing
instructor attending weekly practices.
We have set up an at cost commissary on the farm
for the workers. Bulk purchasing power is used
to supply inexpensive goods to cover the
workers’ basic needs. Fresh vegetables are
grown on the farm and made available to the
workers. Additionally, there are 3,000 citrus
trees (oranges, grapefruits, and limes) as well
as avocados and mangoes throughout the farm.
Our own medical clinic is located on the farm
near the administration building. A doctor
staffs this clinic two days a week to administer
to the needs of the workers and their families.
We also have a dentist at the farm three days a
week to attend to the dental needs of the farm
community. The goal of this clinic is to
provide preventative care. Detailed records of
the medical histories of every person on the
farm are kept for future reference. Private
hospital care for more serious illnesses is also
available.
In San Jose, we
have eight people who handle the accounting,
quality control, mill management and exportation
of all of the coffee that we ship. They
supervise the preparation of the coffee at the
mills and coordinate subsequent shipping. Not
one bean of coffee is shipped without prior
quality testing and approval at this office.
In the United States, we have five people who
are responsible for coffee transport management
and customer support. We work closely with our
customers to develop blend and roast profiles
for the coffees. Additionally, we provide
training and education in the taste profiles and
processing of the coffees we import.
Coffee Milling
In Costa
Rica, almost all of the coffee is processed by the
washing method. To illustrate this process, we
will refer to the San Diego mill located in Tres
Rios. You will be visiting this mill on your
return from La Minita.
Wet Processing
Coffee mills are located where there are
sufficient quantities of good clean water for the
washing and transport of the coffee through the
mill, and where there are large flat areas for
building patios for the coffee to dry in the sun.
The coffee arrives at the mills in large trucks.
These trucks pick up the coffee from the
receiving stations (recibidores) on the farms
and transport it through the mountains to the
mills. It is critical that processing of the
coffee begins within 24 hours of the coffee being
picked from the trees. If the processing is
delayed, the fruit will begin to spoil ruining the
coffee seeds contained within the cherry.
As the coffee is unloaded from the trucks, it is
measured into a large rectangular container called
a medida. The bottom of the medida his hinged to
allow the coffee to be dropped into the
receiving tank after being measured. The
receiving tank is filled with water, and it is
here that the first quality separation takes
place. Any overripe (bellota), seedless (grano
vano), or unripe green (verde) cherries float to
the top of the tank due to their lower densities.
These are channeled off to be processed
separately.
The dense ripe fruit sinks to the bottom of the
tank, and is moved via a siphon through a
destoner (despiedrador). The destoner will
remove any stones or heavier density items that
may have inadvertently gotten mixed in with the
cherries.
The fruit is then passed through a green
separator. The green separator splits the
skin from the fruit and removes any large unripe
green fruit.
A depulper (chancador) then removes the
outer skin from the seeds and the miel. It does
this by cutting the skin and squeezing the fruit
between an inner drum and an outer surface. The
distance between the drum and the surface needs to
be carefully adjusted to ensure the seeds are not
crushed by the depulper. The skins of the coffee
are collected and typically trucked back to the
coffee farms to be used as a mulch.
The coffee then moves on to a criba. A
criba is a cylinder made of bars separated by a
precisely measured distance. A screw conveyer
moves the cherries through the criba. The purpose
of this step is to remove any cherries which did
not have the skins removed in the depulper (this
may be due to small size or hard unripe fruit)
from the properly depulped seeds. The depulped
seeds (first quality) fall through the bars of the
criba and move on to the fermentation tanks, while
the undepulped fruit moves on for further
processing (second and third qualities).
The coffee spends between 24 and 36 hours in the
fermentation tanks (pilas de fermentacion).
The fermentation process will break down the
sugars in the miel, making it easier to remove the
mucilage from the seeds. However, if the coffee
remains in the fermentation tanks for too long,
the coffee seeds will pick up the taste of rotted
fruit. The mill manager makes the all-important
decision on when to remove the seeds from the
fermentation tank.
From the fermentation tanks, the coffee seeds move
to the washing channel (caño de lavado).
The washing channel serves three purposes. First,
the cool temperatures of the water halt the
fermentation process that is occurring within the
coffee mass. Second, the mucilage, which is now
loosened from with the coffee seeds, is washed
away, along with any other loose material that has
gotten into the coffee (ie. dirt, loose skins).
Third, a skilled mill worker will make quality
separations of the coffee based on the specific
gravity of the beans. The lightest lower quality
beans will flow down the channel first, while the
most dense flavorful beans will move more slowly.
The qualities are separated using a series of
slide gates and channels.
Transitional
Steps
The coffee beans are then moved out to the
patios for sun drying. The beans are spread
out in a thin layer, and mill employees constantly
turn the coffee over using wooden paddles. The
process of sun drying tends to add some sweetness
to the coffee.
From the patios, the coffee is placed into the
mechanical driers (secadores) for the final
drying stage. These driers are set at 55 degrees
Celsius (131 F) using indirect heat and slowly
rotate to evenly finish the drying. Again, the
mill manager makes the critical decision on when
to remove the coffee from the dryer based on its
feel, and the ability to remove the parchments
skin from the seed. After the coffee is dropped
out of the drier, it rests for about 10 hours
before being moved. A typical drier load consists
of approximately 60 quintales or 6,000 pounds of
coffee.
At this point, the coffee seed is covered by a
hard shell (called the parchment), as well as a
thin layer of silverskin. The coffee is moved
into large silos, and remains resting for at least
20 days. This period of time is called reposa.
Dry Milling
The parchment coffee is run through a huller.
This will remove the parchment from the seed as
well as the silverskin. The removed parchment is
used as a fuel for the coffee driers.
The green coffee then moves through a screener
to separate the coffee by bean size. One of the
best screening machines for this step in the
process is a modified grain separator which was
made in Scotland. These machines are extremely
accurate (operating using a series of precisely
measured holes), and more importantly, very gentle
on the coffee. We are in the process of
collecting as many of these machines as possible
for use in our new mill.
A catadora is then used to separate the
coffee by density. This is done by using a flow
of air to draw the coffee up a chute with various
gates.
Further sorting occurs with the winnower.
The winnower is a slanted table that vibrates,
shaking the coffee and separating lesser density
coffee from higher densities.
The last step for La Minita coffee is the hand
cleaning tables. Here women pore over the
coffee looking for a discolored or damaged beans
that were not separated by the machines. A top
sorter can clean no more than 50 pounds of beans
in one day.
Milling Summary
The milling of the
coffee is critical in determining the final
quality of the coffee. Not only are there
chemical changes occurring within the beans that
will determine their final cup quality, but also a
series of separations that remove the lower
quality beans. Of 100 pounds of green equivalent
cherries that enter the milling process, only
about 23 pounds make it to become La Minita.
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